The pandemic has forced us to cancel our Scotland Golf Vacation this year. But we refuse to let that stop us from doing all the things we love in Scotland. So for the next two weeks we’ll be in Scotland, not physically but mentally. We choose to take our own imaginary vacation to those lovely links. We’re not crazy…not yet anyway. But two weeks from now who knows.
United Flight 36 departed Newark Airport at 9:10 Monday night August 10th just shy of an hour later than it’s scheduled departure of 8:15. The plane was half filled, not quite prescribed social distancing distance but better than expected.
Although much of our country isn’t functioning normally now, the airline industry still seems to be- late to board, late to depart, no smiles from the flight attendants and barely edible food. Just what we’ve been whipped to expect and accept while flying the friendly skies.
My brother Jeff and I came prepared for the normal indifference and inefficiency that marks major American Airlines – we’re seasoned travelers. But we were especially well provisioned for Air Travel in the Time of COVID-19. We donned Tyvek jump suits and balaclava’s, masked up with N95’s, with 
multiple spares hung about our necks, along with the inflatable neck pillows. The epitome of the well heeled international traveler in the time of plague.
Before boarding we hit the Duty Free Shop to load up on a choice single malt that might fend off any lurking virus.
I was all set to bring an aqualung on board but Jeff researched the airline protocols and discovered ,alas, that this was verboten, so I reluctantly scuttled that idea. Hope and Bowmore 15 Year Old Whisky would have to see us safely to our ancestral homeland.
I can sleep through a hurricane but airplanes are another thing entirely. Although I did snooze for a couple of hours, my brother, who never sleeps while flying, set a new personal record bagging four hours of solid slumber. That Bowmore is a wonderful sleeping potion.
He was dead to the world while raising a sonorous racket – I’ve never heard such committed snoring.
No one else in our section of the plane managed any sleep. They should have had some Bowmore of their own.
Although we departed late, arrival was nearly on time as we touched down in Edinburgh at 8:15 Tuesday morning 11 August. The queue for Customs and Border Control snaked miles along narrow corridors as social distancing was strictly forced by dour uniformed officials who seemed especially suspicious of folks arriving from the US. I didn’t blame them one bit.
We were fortunate that the 14 day quarantine provisions recently in place for visitors from the U.S. were waived in our case. The cachet of Links Life Golf goes a lot further than one would think.
An hours wait got us admitted to the country, another quarter hour for luggage delivery and currency exchange and we made a beeline to the Starbucks for a large tea and a flat white. Most airports are outfitted with great conveniences like nearby Starbucks, baggage carts (free in Edinburgh) and great signage to get you headed in the right direction.
The problems with airports typically are the people who work in them. Exhibit #1 was the gent at the Hertz counter. First, he refused to serve us until we removed our balaclavas (did he think we were the IRA?). That done, it went downhill as he read our US passports- ugly, infected Americans! Well, we were not infected.
The car I’d reserved was a Skoda Octavia Estate- what we call a station wagon in the states- but, surprise, they did not have one currently available. Would we like a Land Rover for a £200 upcharge?. No. Just the Skoda Octavia Estate, please, or comparable, I said.
“Well that might be difficult, sir,” Angus replied.
“ I don’t see why” I said. “ I’m a gold member in long standing and I know the rules of the game, Angus”.
In the end, after ample blustering from Angus, we grabbed the keys to an Audi A5 Hatchback, turbo charged and fitted with an in onboard GPS, at no extra charge. You need to know how the game is played and expect people to try to game you.
I came out on top of this one but I had a feeling that my prospects for the golf were not quite as rosey.
Our first booking was the Lodge at Craigelaw, about a thirty minute drive East to the Golf Coast just outside of Edinburgh. We’d bought a stay and play package at Craigelaw which included a night’s lodging, an evening meal and two rounds of golf, one at Craigelaw Links, the other at nearby Kilspindie Links.
We had briefly visited this region, which is chock full of splendid links, in 2016 when we spent a blustery day at the famous links of North Berwick.
Our itinerary had us moving north to Fife on Wednesday but our plan was to return to this coast for four final rounds at the end of our trip.
A 2:30 tee time at Kilspindie gave us ample time for a a quick clean up and then a Scottish luncheon. Jeff loves the Guinness and he downed two pints to chase his Cullen Skink and fish and chips. G&T for me and of course, Cullen Skink.
Jeffrey was well fortified with fine food and drink and I thought I might be in trouble in our first match on a Links in nearly a year.
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